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Trussardi is having a second. This Saturday throughout Milan Vogue Week, GmbH founders Benjamin A Huseby and Serhat Isik will current their second assortment for the 111-year-old Italian model. Quickly after, in October, the Palazzo Trussardi flagship in Milan Piazza della Scala will reopen with a new-look retailer and high-end restaurant and cafe helmed by Michelin-star chef Giancarlo Perbellini.
Huseby and Serhat, along with CEO Sebastian Suhl, are steering a turnaround for Trussardi that seeks to draw a brand new era of customers and reignite the fervour of former followers. Alongside revamped collections, they’re rethinking its retail community, e-commerce operations and advertising — a 360-degree strategy they hope will assist to “shake off the mud” from the once-exciting model.
Trussardi was based in 1911 as a luxurious gloves model. Within the Nineteen Eighties and Nineties, it developed right into a pioneering up to date ready-to-wear and leather-based items label, constructing a world retail community that at the moment contains 400 wholesale purchasers and 55 immediately operated shops in addition to the Palazzo Trussardi flagship. Nonetheless, the corporate struggled to keep up relevance because the up to date vogue class exploded. In 2017 it posted losses of €30.6 million, per Reuters. Non-public fairness agency QuattroR, which specialises in reviving distressed Italian companies, took a 60 per cent controlling stake in 2019 (the Trussardi household retains a minority stake).
Suhl, an trade veteran who has held senior roles at Valentino, Marc Jacobs, Givenchy and Prada Group, joined Trussardi as CEO in October 2020. Final 12 months he drafted in Huseby and Isik — greatest identified for his or her Berlin-based, club-inspired model GmbH — as inventive administrators to inject it with some youthful power.
For his or her first season in Autumn/Winter 2022, the duo confirmed a barely subversive, all-black and textured assortment, which some critics noticed as a radical departure from Trussardi’s previous, though it was impressed by the model’s archive. For Spring/Summer season 2023, the duo are planning to “broaden” the Trussardi wardrobe, with new merchandise based mostly on staples they’ve seen individuals put on on the streets of Milan, subverted via their edgy lens.
In a wide-ranging interview, Suhl, Huseby and Isik focus on their shared imaginative and prescient for the way forward for Trussardi.
Vogue Enterprise: Trussardi is one in every of Italy’s oldest vogue homes. How would you describe its heritage and what did you make of it once you first joined?
Benjamin A Huseby: Our first impression of Trussardi was based mostly on private reminiscences of the late Nineties, seeing very minimalist campaigns with cool fashions of the time sporting leather-based. After which, having labored right here and dug into the archives, we’ve performed an “excavation” as we name it, into what Trussardi is and might be. It has a really wealthy historical past. Within the Nineteen Eighties and Nineties it was a extremely forward-thinking model in so many elements, from retail to campaigns. That was all fairly shocking.